Challenging (high-altitude winter)
Winter Spiti Circuit
Starts Chandigarh (Mumbai/Pune add-on by train)
- From
- Rs. 20,000*
- Nights
- 10
- Open dates
- 6
Field guide · Himachal Pradesh
Spiti's only real town: the market, the petrol pump, the cafes, and the base for the high villages above it.
Photo: Key Monastery on a hill above the Spiti river near Kaza, with snow peaks behind
Kaza is the administrative headquarters of Spiti and a town of a few thousand people on the left bank of the Spiti River. Nobody comes to Spiti for Kaza itself. You come because everything else is a day trip from it: Key and Kibber up one road, Langza, Hikkim and Komic up another, Dhankar and Pin Valley downstream.
It is also where you rest, refuel and find out whether the road ahead is open. For the bigger picture, read the Spiti Valley guide first.
Overview
The town is in two halves. Old Kaza has the market lanes, the bus stand and most of the homestays. New Kaza, across a stream, has the government offices, the hospital and the Sakya Tangyud monastery with its row of stupas.
Sources disagree on how high Kaza is. Wikipedia says 3,650 m and most operators say about 3,800 m. Either way it is high enough that your first evening should be a slow walk and an early night.
Two nights is the minimum that makes sense: one day for Key, Kibber and Chicham, one for Langza, Hikkim and Komic. A third night lets you add Dhankar or Pin Valley without rushing, and gives you slack if the weather turns.
From about December to March the town runs on wood stoves and stored food. Wikipedia gives January lows of around minus 30 C. Water pipes freeze, so expect bucket water and dry toilets. Many cafes and hotels close. What stays open is usually a family home.
Things to do
Key is about 12 km from Kaza at 4,166 m and is the largest monastery in Spiti. Kibber, at 4,270 m, is a year-round village inside a wildlife sanctuary. The suspension bridge on to Chicham opened in 2017 and replaced a ropeway.
Langza for the Buddha statue and the fossil-bearing slopes, Hikkim for the post office at about 4,400 m, Komic for the Tangyud gompa and the highest point most visitors reach by road, around 4,587 m. Take it slowly. You gain close to 800 m over Kaza.
Woollens, prayer flags, thangka paintings and silver jewellery, plus the everyday shops the valley relies on. It is the one place in Spiti to replace a lost glove or a dead torch.
The town's own monastery, with a row of eight stupas beside it. A level 1.5 km walk from the Old Kaza bus stand.
Dhankar is 24 km from Kaza on a cliff above the Spiti and Pin rivers. Pin Valley branches south from there. Both fit in one long day or, better, with a night in Tabo or Mud.
Thin dry air and very little light pollution. On a moonless night the Milky Way is plain to the naked eye from the edge of town.
Practical info
June to mid October, or deep winter
Summer and early autumn have open roads from both sides and everything running. Winter has snow, silence, and very little open. See the Spiti Valley guide for the full picture.
Two roads
From Shimla through Kinnaur, about 420 km over two to three days, open all year subject to weather. From Manali over Kunzum Pass, one long day, summer and early autumn only. State buses run on both when the roads are open.
Rest first
Do nothing ambitious on arrival day. Drink water, eat light, skip alcohol. Do the Key and Kibber day before the Komic day, because it is lower. A headache that eases with rest is common. One that worsens, with nausea or breathlessness at rest, means go down and get help.
The only pump in Spiti
The district lists Kaza as the only petrol pump in Spiti. ATMs exist and are unreliable. Networks named most often are BSNL and Jio, with patchy data. Most homestays and cafes are cash only.
For the high-village day
Windproof jacket, warm layer, sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm, water and a snack. It can be T-shirt weather in Kaza and bitter at Komic an hour later.
Build your packing list
Tell the builder where and when you are going and it gives you a list you can tick off.
Open the Packing List BuilderGo with Charkadam
Kaza is on the route of our Winter Spiti Circuit, reached by the gradual Shimla and Kinnaur road. The trip page has the current day-by-day plan and what is included.
* Indicative starting price. The trip page shows the price for each date.
Challenging (high-altitude winter)
Starts Chandigarh (Mumbai/Pune add-on by train)
Questions
Two nights is the practical minimum: one day for Key, Kibber and Chicham and one for Langza, Hikkim and Komic. Three nights lets you add Dhankar or Pin Valley.
Sources disagree. Wikipedia gives 3,650 m and most tour operators quote about 3,800 m.
Yes to both. The district lists the Kaza pump as the only one in Spiti. The ATMs are widely reported to run out of cash, so carry enough for your stay.
Yes, by the Shimla and Kinnaur road, though it can close after heavy snow. Many hotels and cafes shut for winter and stays are mostly in family homes with basic facilities.
Keep reading
The whole valley
Spiti Valley
The route in, the monasteries, the high villages and how to handle the altitude.
996 CE and still in use
Tabo
A thousand-year-old monastery, caves in the cliff above, and an easier night than Kaza.
The lake village
Nako
A small lake, thousand-year-old temples and the first real altitude on the Spiti road.
Facing Kinner Kailash
Kalpa
Orchards, old Kinnauri houses and the sunrise across the Sutlej gorge.