Field guide · Himachal Pradesh

Bir Billing travel guide

A Tibetan settlement and tea-garden village under the Dhauladhars, with one of the best-known paragliding sites in the world on the ridge above.

  • About 1,525 mBir
  • About 2,400 mBilling launch
  • 15 July to 15 SeptemberNo flying

Photo: A paraglider with an orange and blue wing flying above the green Kangra valley near Bir Billing

Bir is the village, at about 1,525 m. Billing is the launch meadow, about 14 km up the hill at roughly 2,400 m. Pilots take off from Billing, ride the thermals along the Dhauladhar range and land in the fields at Chowgan, on the edge of Bir.

Most people come for a twenty-minute tandem flight and leave the same day. That misses most of it. Bir has been a Tibetan refugee settlement since the 1960s, with monasteries of several schools, and the lanes between them are some of the calmest in Himachal.

Researched and written October 2026Location photos are free-use images, not Charkadam trip photos

Overview

A village under a launch pad

Bir lies in the Kangra valley, about 50 km from Dharamshala. It has three parts: Upper Bir, the original Himachali village among tea gardens; the Tibetan Colony, with its monasteries and market; and Chowgan, around the landing site, where most cafes and hostels are.

The Tibetan Colony was set up in the early 1960s for refugees who followed the Dalai Lama into exile. The third Neten Chokling Rinpoche brought his family here in 1966 and founded the monastery that bears his name.

Why pilots come

Billing faces south over a wide valley with a long mountain wall behind it, which gives reliable lift. Bir Billing hosted India's first Paragliding World Cup in October 2015, with over 130 pilots from about 40 countries, and competitions still come in the autumn.

The closed season

Authorities ban paragliding here every year from 15 July to 15 September for the monsoon. If flying is the reason for your trip, do not book those weeks.

A tandem paraglider high above forested ridges and the valley floor at Bir
Over the Kangra valley

Food

Momos, wood-fired pizza, dosa

For a village, Bir eats very well: Tibetan kitchens in the colony, traveller cafes around Chowgan. The names below each turned up in at least two write-ups. Things change, so check before you set your heart on one.

Bir's tables

  • Momos and thukpaTibetan Colony

    Small family kitchens serve dumplings and noodle soup at very fair prices. Ram Bahadur and Nyingma Kitchen are the names guides repeat.

  • Thenthuk and tingmoalso Tibetan

    Hand-pulled noodle soup, and soft steamed bread to mop up whatever it comes with.

  • Sidduthe Himachali one

    Steamed stuffed bread. One cafe guide points to The Northern Cafe for it, with a sunset view.

  • Wood-fired pizzaChowgan

    Several cafes have pizza ovens. Guides name a small place called Cloud Door.

  • South Indian breakfastdosa in the hills

    Avva's Cafe is recommended in more than one guide for dosas.

  • Cafe plateseverything else

    Garden Cafe and Silver Linings are named for pancakes, iced teas and burgers. Kangra tea, grown on the slopes around Bir, is worth asking for.

ATMs here are few and often out of service. Carry cash.

Things to do

Fly, then stay

  1. A tandem paragliding flight

    Billing to Chowgan · 15 to 30 minutes in the air

    You are driven up to Billing, clipped in front of a pilot, and you run off the hill. Guides in 2026 quote roughly Rs 2,500 to 3,500 for a standard flight, with video extra. Fly only with a licensed pilot through a registered operator, ask to see the licence, and do not fly if the pilot seems unsure about the weather. People have died here.

  2. Chokling monastery

    Tibetan Colony

    The best-known monastery in Bir, with a large stupa and a lawn in front of the main hall. Walk clockwise, speak quietly, and ask before photographing monks.

  3. Palpung Sherabling

    About 6 km away, in pine forest

    A large monastic seat set in forest at Bhattu. The walk in under the pines, lined with prayer flags, is as good as the monastery.

  4. Sunset at the landing site

    Chowgan · late afternoon

    Sit on the grass and watch gliders come in against the evening light. Half of Bir does the same.

  5. Tea gardens and Upper Bir

    A morning walk

    Paths wind between tea bushes and old slate-roofed houses above the colony. No ticket, no plan needed.

  6. Billing on foot

    Half day up, or drive up and walk down

    A forest trail links Bir and Billing. Walking down from the launch after watching the take-offs is an easy way to do it.

Hidden gems

What travellers pass on

These are not our discoveries. They are places and tips that other travellers keep passing on, in forum threads, Q&A answers and independent travel blogs. We have cross-checked each one against at least one more source, but small places change fast. Ask locally before you plan a day around any of them.

  • Gunehar and its waterfall

    A walk from Bir

    A neighbouring village with a stream, pools and a waterfall that guides call Bangoru. Travellers describe it as an easy afternoon out with almost no one there.

    Two travel guides agree

  • Monk debates at Dzongsar

    Chauntra, about 6 km

    One long-stay guide suggests visiting the Dzongsar Khyentse Chokyi Lodro institute to watch monks practise formal debate, with its claps and stamps. Timings vary, so ask in Bir first.

    One long-stay guide

  • Rajgundha

    A trek from Billing

    A valley of a few hamlets behind the ridge, reached by a trail from Billing of roughly 10 km. People who went describe starry nights and no network. Go with a local guide.

    Named in several Bir guides

  • Deer Park Institute

    Tibetan Colony

    A centre for the study of classical Indian wisdom traditions, set up in 2006 in a former monastery. It runs talks and courses that visitors can join. Check its calendar.

    Wikipedia and Bir guides

  • Stay three days, not three hours

    Bir

    The advice long-stayers give most often. One guide sets a minimum of three days to get anything from the place beyond the flight.

    A recurring tip

Practical info

Before you go

Best time

March to June, October to November

Flying is best from March to June and from late September to November. October and November are described as the calmest months and are when competitions are held. No flying from 15 July to 15 September. Some pilots fly on clear winter days, when it is cold aloft.

Getting there

Bus, or train to Pathankot

Direct overnight buses run from Delhi, about 520 km. Guides give Pathankot, about 140 km away, as the main railhead, with a narrow-gauge train on to Ahju near Bir, and Kangra airport at Gaggal, about 65 km, for flights.

Altitude

Low

Bir at 1,525 m and Billing at about 2,400 m pose no altitude problem. It is cold at the launch even on a warm day.

Cash, fuel, phone

Come prepared

Guides report the ATM in Bir is often out of service, the nearest petrol pump is at Chauntra, and Jio and Airtel signal is good in the village.

What to pack

For the flight

Closed shoes with grip, a windproof jacket, sunglasses and a strap for them. Empty your pockets before take-off. The weather turns quickly, so keep a rain layer handy.

Build your packing list

Tell the builder where and when you are going and it gives you a list you can tick off.

Open the Packing List Builder

Go with Charkadam

Bir, with a group

Bir is on our Himachal circuit through Kasol, Manali, Bir and Dharamshala. The trip page has the current day-by-day plan and says what is included and what is paid on the spot.

* Indicative starting price. The trip page shows the price for each date.

Questions

Bir, answered

Paragliding is banned every year from 15 July to 15 September for the monsoon. The main flying seasons are March to June and late September to November.

Guides published in 2026 quote roughly Rs 2,500 to 3,500 for a standard tandem flight of 15 to 30 minutes. Prices vary by season and operator, so confirm locally.

It carries real risk and there have been fatal accidents. Fly only with a licensed tandem pilot through a registered operator, in good weather, and follow the pilot's instructions at take-off.

Bir is the village at about 1,525 m where you stay and land. Billing is the take-off meadow about 14 km up the hill at roughly 2,400 m.

Keep reading

Guides nearby

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