- From
- Rs. 19,499*
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- 14
Field guide · Himachal Pradesh
Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj travel guide
A Kangra hill town and, above it, the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile, under the wall of the Dhauladhar range.
- 2,082 mMcLeod Ganj
- About 1,450 mDharamshala
- Two or three nightsGood for
Photo: Hotels and houses of McLeod Ganj on a forested ridge with mountains behind
Dharamshala is two towns. Lower Dharamshala, at about 1,450 m, is the Kangra district town with the bus stand, the markets and the cricket stadium. McLeod Ganj, around 9 km up the hill at 2,082 m, is where the 14th Dalai Lama has lived since 1960 and where most travellers stay.
Above McLeod Ganj the villages of Dharamkot and Bhagsu climb into the forest, and the trail to Triund climbs past them to the foot of the Dhauladhars.
Overview
A hill town in exile
McLeod Ganj is named after Sir Donald McLeod, a British Lieutenant Governor of Punjab. "Ganj" is a Persian word for neighbourhood. It was a quiet cantonment until the 1905 Kangra earthquake flattened it, killing about 20,000 people across the region.
In 1959 the Dalai Lama fled Tibet. He first set up an administration in Mussoorie, and in May 1960 the Central Tibetan Administration moved here. Since then the town has been the centre of Tibetan life outside Tibet: monasteries, schools, libraries, a medical institute, and thousands of people in maroon robes.
Where to base yourself
McLeod Ganj for restaurants and the temple. Dharamkot or Upper Bhagsu, a 20 to 30 minute walk above, for quiet and views. Lower Dharamshala if you have an early bus or a match to watch.
The stadium
The Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association stadium in lower Dharamshala sits at 1,457 m with the snow line behind the stands. It hosted five matches of the 2023 World Cup. On non-match days you can usually look in.
Food
The best Tibetan food in India
A large Tibetan community cooking for itself, plus decades of long-stay travellers. The restaurant names below are ones more than one source recommends. Check they are still there.
Other names that come up for Tibetan food are Four Seasons Cafe, Norling Restaurant and a tiny place called Kalimpong. Kangra itself has its own dham, with madra and sour khatta. Ask in lower Dharamshala.
Small places fill up at lunch. Go a little early.
Things to do
Temples, then trails
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Tsuglagkhang, the Dalai Lama's temple
The main temple of the complex where the Dalai Lama lives, with images of Shakyamuni Buddha, Avalokiteshvara and Padmasambhava. Namgyal Monastery is alongside. Walk the kora, the pilgrim path around the hill, clockwise with the locals. Bring ID, and expect a bag check.
Temple eaves -
The Tibet Museum
A small, well-made museum on Tibetan history, the occupation and the journey into exile. Give it forty minutes.
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Bhagsu
An old Shiva temple with a spring-fed pool, and a path beyond it to a waterfall. Crowded in the afternoon. The upper village above the falls is quieter.
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Dharamkot
A village in the forest above town with yoga schools, a meditation centre and cafes with long views over the Kangra valley.
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Triund
The classic walk: a steady climb from Dharamkot or Gallu to a grassy ridge directly beneath the Dhauladhar wall. Guides give about 5.5 km and 4 to 6 hours for the climb from Gallu, so allow a full day. Rules on registration and camping have changed several times, so check at the forest checkpost.
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Norbulingka Institute
A centre that keeps Tibetan arts alive: thangka painting, woodcarving, statue making and embroidery, with workshops you can walk through and a calm garden.
Practical info
Before you go
Best time
March to June, mid September to November
Spring and autumn are clear and mild. Dharamshala is one of the wettest places in Himachal in July and August, with cloud hiding the mountains for days. Winter is cold, with snow on Triund and sometimes in McLeod Ganj.
Getting there
Bus, train to Pathankot, or fly to Kangra
Overnight buses run from Delhi and Chandigarh. The nearest broad-gauge railhead is Pathankot, about 85 km away. Kangra airport at Gaggal is about 13 km from Dharamshala.
Getting around
Feet and shared taxis
McLeod Ganj is small and steep, and its lanes are narrow. Walk where you can. Shared taxis and buses link it with lower Dharamshala.
Altitude
Low
McLeod Ganj at 2,082 m is not a concern. Triund, at about 2,850 m, is a stiff climb more than an altitude problem.
Teachings and etiquette
Check the schedule
The Dalai Lama's public teachings are announced on his office's website and need registration with ID. In temples, dress modestly, walk clockwise, and do not photograph people at prayer without asking.
Build your packing list
Tell the builder where and when you are going and it gives you a list you can tick off.
Open the Packing List BuilderGo with Charkadam
Dharamshala, with a group
Dharamshala is the last stop on our Himachal circuit through Kasol, Manali and Bir. The trip page has the current day-by-day plan.
* Indicative starting price. The trip page shows the price for each date.
Questions
Dharamshala, answered
Dharamshala is the district town at about 1,450 m. McLeod Ganj is a suburb about 9 km up the hill at 2,082 m, home to the Dalai Lama's temple and most traveller accommodation.
Guides give about 5.5 km and 4 to 6 hours for the climb from Gallu Devi, to a ridge at roughly 2,850 m. Allow a full day there and back.
March to June and mid September to November. July and August are very wet, and winter is cold with possible snow.
There is no general public access. He gives public teachings on announced dates, which require prior registration with identification. Check his office's official schedule.
Keep reading
Guides nearby
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Paragliding and monasteries
Bir Billing
The launch at Billing, the Tibetan colony below, and slow village walks.
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The Golden Temple city
Amritsar
Harmandir Sahib at dawn and at night, kulcha for breakfast, and the border at sunset.
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Beas valley base
Manali
Old Manali, Hadimba's cedar forest, Solang's snow and the tunnel to Lahaul.
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Parvati valley base
Kasol
A riverside village, the walks around it and the hot springs up the road.
